The brush strokes will be applied to the imported vector paths automatically. Switch between brushes, edit the brush in Brush Creator or select different colors or gradients to match your specific design. Groundbreaking feature for the next Flame Painter release is the import of an SVG file - either to one layer as a bitmap or to multiple layers as a vector which can be further edited according to your needs. In today’s blog, we’d like to introduce the next big improvements that will make you enjoy working with Flame Painter more than before, including Import of vector paths, Symmetry tool, Canvas Size & Transform tool, Navigator panel, Filters menu and more. I generally do all treatments and then clear coat to finish the piece.Soon to be released Flame Painter 4, a new edition of a standalone paint and particle effects package will include amazing new brushes, particle systems, and advanced Brush Creator panel. Of course, you can always try anything (pretty much), sometimes that’s when you come up with a new technique. It’s a finishing treatment to seal the end result. I’m not sure why you would ever add anything after clear coating since the purpose is to seal the piece. If you fill before flaming the heat may change the color or burn your filling medium. I have done stamping with coins on copper and flame painted with no other treatment than clear coat. I have not combined all three together (flame painting, stamping, filling medium)so can’t say I can give an expert opinion on that. I have used liver of sulfur, then clear coated. )With filling the impressions, it may depend a little on what you use to fill them. (But, you could try both ways and see, experimenting is the fun part! I wouldn’t do it, but there are always many ways to do everything- depends a lot what the end result you’re aiming for is. Flame painting is such a surface treatment, it could get disturbed pretty easily. The change is subtle and you need to be on the look out for these signs! See the video for an example of overheating. (I’m talking about 10 minutes minimum for a small (1-2″) jewelry piece. That’s how you know you didn’t let it cool long enough. The metal may seem to have cooled, but when you start painting over your preheated piece it will quickly overheat again. The key is you need to really let the piece rest and cool for a while. Many times I get the best colors at about the third attempt. You can keep painting over the piece (if you overheated it) without recleaning it. You won’t get durable colors with the first heating. The key is preheating properly, cooling completely and then painting. Very often many of the blues are lost, as well as some reds. The other issue is what I call “durability” – how well will these colors remain after you clear coat the piece. You are not going to get nice color fast. That dullness is so annoying, isn’t it?įlame painting requires a lot of patience and attentiveness. If you continue after that (without letting the piece cool first) you will get no good colors. (Especially if you are a beginner it’s hard to know when you have overheated the metal.) There is a slight sudden color “dulling” that happens that you have to watch for. It is very easy to overheat the copper piece and get not so great colors. The most common question I get has to do with dull colors.